Sorry about not updating the blog! It has been a crazy week and a half! This past weekend we went to
Sossusvlei. Sossusvlei (Sossus is a Nama word for Dead-end and Vlei is a Afrikaans word for marsh, so it means dead-end marsh) is in the
Namib Desert, one of the oldest deserts in the world, in the southwestern
portion of Namibia. We didn’t go
to school on Friday (January 25th), so we got up early and loaded up
and took off for our adventure in the desert. I have been having my fair share of carsickness run-ins, so
everyone graciously let me sit shotgun for our trip- the one downside of riding
shotgun is that we are not allowed to sleep if you sit up front, so no napping
for me. We took two cars, a van
loaded up with the 9 students, one of the guides in training (James) and our
driver/friend/guy works at the house we live in, Scobie (think Scooby, but say
O instead of oo), and a second car that had our professors and our guide,
Tickey (pronounced Tiki). We
headed out of Katatura/Windhoek around 9:00- it was supposed to be 8:00, but
everyone runs on Namibian time here.
Our first stop was in Rehoboth, a smaller town about an hour outside of
Windhoek. We briefly ran into the
store to buy water and snacks for the road before briefly stopping for a
bathroom break. Once we left
Rehoboth we had about ten more minutes on paved, tar roads before we hit the
dirt and gravel roads… for FOUR HOURS.
About an hour after using the restroom and leaving Rehoboth I realized I
had drank about two liters of water, oops. The next stop wasn’t going to be for about two and a half
more hours, and the gravel road wasn’t helping. We FINALLY found a place where we could pull over to use a
“bushman’s toilet”, aka a bush, but not before Tickey comes up to my window to
tell me to listen for a “ssssss” sound of one of the top five most poisonous
snakes. Thank you, Tickey! But no need to worry, I didn’t come
across the snake in the bushman’s toilet.
We were on the road again, but now
I could actually enjoy the scenery around me. I couldn’t get over how green and “mountainous” it was. I say “mountainous” because it isn’t
like the mountains at home. Scobie
told me that we were going to be driving by one of his favorite places in
Africa. We turned a corner, pulled
off to the side of the road and I am not even sure I could accurately describe
what we saw. We were at the top of
a mountain pass, looking over rolling, brown fields and into the distance were
more mountains, accompanied by the shadow of the clouds that looked like water
from the distance. Breath-taking. I could never have imagined seeing such
beautiful places and scenery. This
is where Tickey and James set up a table and began making our lunch. We had cabbage salad/coleslaw,
sandwiches, and juice. Once
leaving our lunch break, we loaded the cars back up and headed off for
Sossusvlei. As we drove in, I kept
pointing out the rain clouds in the distance, “Scobie, it’s raining over
there”, “Look Scobie, rain!” and all the responses I got where, “Yeah Lyss, it
might be drizzling over there.” As
we are pulling up to the campsite in Sossusvlei, it starts raining, the wind
picked up, and we were in for a desert storm. Fortunately for us, it didn’t stick around too long. Scobie took us to our campsites, while
Tickey to our professors to the lodge.
Once we got to our campsites we
pitched our tents and ran for the pool.
Some swam in the very green pool, but I couldn’t see my toes when
dangling my feet in the water so there was no way I was getting in. We headed back to the campsite and
geared up for our evening hike.
Tickey and Scobie took us to a dune and we began our hike up. This was the hike to prepare us for our
major hike the next morning in Sossusvlei, so we could judge our abilities, set
a pace, and see if we would even attempt the Saturday hike. We made it to the top, took out our
cameras and began the attempts to capture the sunset. I have never been more frustrated in my life. I have yet to ever take a picture that
accurately depicts what I am seeing when it comes to sunrises/sunsets
here. We toasted each other at the
top and Tickey gave us a history/science lesson on feature of the Namib Desert
and the dunes. He informed us that
the soil/sand the dunes are made up of our full of iron, which is why they
appear red as the iron rich soil interacts with oxygen. The best part of hiking the dunes: coming
back down. We jumped/ran all the
way down the dunes after the sun had set and drove back to the campsite with
piles of sand in our shoes. By the
time we got back we were all hot and sweaty from the hike and James had
finished making our dinner. We had
game kabobs: Oryx, Springbok, Zebra, and Cow, curried veggies, garlic bread,
and leftover salad. All of it was
delicious. We all went to bed
shortly after dinner, as our call time for the Saturday hike was 4:30am.
I thought I knew what hot was…. That
was until I was trying to sleep in a tent in the middle of the Namib
Desert. I don’t think I slept more
than two hours that night. My
alarm finally went off, I quickly put on my hiking clothes and tied up my sandy
shoes before heading for breakfast.
Tickey and James had provided us with cold cereal, yogurt, bananas, and
bread for peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. I forced down some cold cereal
and grabbed a banana and hard-boiled egg for the hike. The 30-minute car ride into the dunes
from our campsite was the quietest car ride we have had yet. I think all nine of us were out
cold. At a certain point vehicles
were no longer allowed, so we took the suggest shuttle into the actual dunes
(it’s either the shuttle in, or you have to walk a 5K through the sand just to
get to the dunes… Jan said that just wasn’t going to happen). We arrived a Deadvlei (Dead Marsh) and
started our first hike. We went up
over two smaller dunes, we stopped at the first to take a picture of the
sunrises, and arrived in the middle of, literally, a dead marsh. Deadvlei used to be a marsh that fell
between some of the dunes before it eventually dried up, leaving a gray clay
desert floor with dead trees that are about 600-800 thousand years old. It was one of the most incredible sites
I have ever seen. It almost felt
as if it were unreal. This was the
point I stopped and thought, “I cannot believe that this is actually my life
right now.” We stayed for about
half an hour, taking pictures of the scenery, with each other, and simply
relishing the moment. We couldn’t
stay too long because we wanted to hike Big Mama before the sun got “too hot”
(too hot is a bit of a relative term).
We hiked back over the two dunes,
leaving Deadvlei in our tacks and caught the next shuttle to Big Mama. When looking at Big Mama, I thought
there is no way I am actually climbing to the top of this thing. It was very high and I tend to turn
very, very white with heights. But
I was DETERMINED. I was going to
make it. We hiked and hiked and
hiked and eventually summated the dune.
Again, I thought I had seen some beautiful landscapes before, but
nothing compares to this. We all
sat along the crest of Big Mama, looking over a dried up watering hole, a wild
Oryx eating, an ostrich or two eating, other massive dunes, mountains in the
background, I could go on and on.
The red sand with the bluest of blue skies meeting on the crests. Unbelievable. We sat for a bit, catching our breath, taking it all in,
enjoying each other’s company, and delighting in Namibia’s beauty. I was sitting next to Paula, as she
leaned over and says, “And just think, you wanted to be in Mexico right
now.” We both chuckled and I replied
that this is clearly the place God wanted me to be and I am so grateful that
Mexico was ripped out of my hands.
There is nothing that can compare to this experience. Then comes the best part… running down
the dune. You start with a jump or
two, then you just keep your legs moving since momentum is taking you down
whether you want to or not. We
hiked back to our shuttle and headed back for the van. We drove from the shuttle area to our
next dune, Dune 45. Dune 45 is one
of the most photographed dunes in the Sossusvlei area. As a group we decided that we weren’t
going to hike Dune 45, the heat was rising rapidly. We all got out of the vans and head towards the dunes for
pictures and the next thing I knew, I was at the top of the Dune 45. I am not exactly sure how the group
decision got made, nor where I was when it was made (because it really wasn’t),
but we all hiked along like a gaggle of ducklings following their mother up the
dune. Again, we ran down the dune
as our professors laughed at us for hiking the dune we WEREN’T going to hike.
We got back to our campsite, hot,
tired, and hungry. We all quickly
grabbed our swim suits and some ran for the pool. Again, the pool was green and murky and there was no way I
was getting in, so a few of us stayed behind playing cards and helping Tickey
and James make lunch. James, once
again, prepared a fabulous lunch for us.
Shortly a couple hours after lunch we jumped in the van, headed to the
lodge to grab Steve (my professor’s, Paula, husband) and head to the canyon
near by, Seisreim Canyon. We hiked, once again,
down into the canyon and learned about the history, geography, and function of
the canyon. It was a neat canyon
to see, and I’m glad we went, but it was poor timing. We were all hot, grumpy, and not into listening to Tickey go
on and on about the canyon. Once
we surfaced from the canyon, we got back into the van and headed back to our
professors’ lodge. This was the most bizarre part. We had been hiking and hiking, a fabulous workout hiking
gigantic dunes and down into canyons, yet we weren’t very sweaty. But as soon as we got in the car, we
were dripping with sweat… I was
actually quite concerned during our hike into the canyon. I was dying I was so hot but I wasn’t
sweating at all, a clear indication of dehydration, despite the fact I had
finished about 3 liters of water.
We found out once we returned to Windhoek, that the temperature was 122
degree Fahrenheit, and our sweat actually evaporating off of us while we were
outside in the sun.
Thankfully, the women running the lodge agreed to allow the students to
come in from the campgrounds and swim at the pool! This pool I would actually get into. For the next three hours we lounged in
and around the pool, drinking water and the cold beverage of choice that PLU
purchased.
Unfortunately, Scobie came to
gather us all around 6:00 to take us back to the dreaded tents for dinner with
Tickey and James. We arrived back
to the campsite, stopping by the campground “store” to buy more cold water,
wine, and a popsicle. Back at
camp, I finally took a shower to cool down and try to get rid of all the sand
that was sticking to my sweat, pool chlorine, sunscreen, and bug spray. After my shower, we ate dinner and
headed to the campground “bar” for a cold drink before bed. By about 10:00, we were all dead; we
had been up for about eighteen hours.
I crawled into a very hot and stuffy tent, but was somehow able to
quickly fall asleep from exhaustion.
The next morning we woke up around 6:30 to get dressed, eat breakfast,
and pack up camp. We were on the
road by 8:00 to gather our professors from their lodge and head back to
Windhoek. This was by far one of
the most incredible experiences of my life. I still, a few days afterwards, cannot believe what I saw
and I am in just in awe of the beauty here.
*I will go back and update about my
trip to Northern Namibia as soon as possible. It was just A TON of information that I am trying to get all
sorted through, so this was my update to tide everyone over until I complete
that blog post.
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| First small dune as we hiked to Deadvlei, watching the sunrise. |
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| The view from the top of the pass, where we ate lunch |
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| Deadvlei group photo: Jan, Nataly, Rachel, Suzy, Josh, Me, McKenzie, Megan, Kelli, Paula |
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| Deanvlei tree: Natally, McKenzie, Me, Suzy |
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| Deadvlei |
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| Deadvlei |
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| Top of Big Mama: Tickey is tossing the melon, Scobie is standing, and James is sitting |
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| View from the top of Big Mama |
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| Group photo at the top of Big Mama |
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| Big Mama |
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| The best picture I could find to put Big Mama in perspective |
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| Hiking down the canyon |
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| Seisreim Cayon |
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| Running down Big Mama |
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| Swimming at our professors' lodge |